KANGA: THE TALKING CLOTH

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The kanga (or khanga; from the old Bantu (Kiswahili) verb ku-kanga, to wrap or close), is a colourful garment similar to kitenge, worn by women and occasionally by men throughout the African Great Lakes region. It is a piece of printed cotton fabric, about 1.5m by 1m, often with a border along all four sides (called pindo in Swahili), and a central part (mji) which differs in design from the borders.

                KANGA CLOTHES

Kanga is not just like any other rectangular piece of cloth, no matter how colourful it may be. It is an artifact of the Swahili culture and as such it should be designed with extreme care to appeal to its users. A poorly designed kanga, or one that fails to match the season doesn't deserve the name and the best it can be used for could be as a kitchen apron or a baby diaper.  

Kangas have for as long as is known been a traditional type of dress amongst women in the African Great Lakes region. Toward the eastern part of the region, phrases in Kiswahili are traditional, while in central areas phrases in both Kiswahili and Lingala are popular. Kangas are also often referred to as lesos.

One of the longer edges of the mji features a strip which contains a message in Swahili, or less commonly in Arabic or Comorian. Other countries which produce their own Kangas write the Kanga messages/names in their main languages: in Madagascar(Malagasy Republic) where they are known as lambas, they feature ohabolana, traditional proverbs written in Malagasy; they are also produced in Zambia and Malawi. This message is called the jina (literally 'name') of the kanga. Messages are often in the form of riddles or proverbs. Some examples:

  • Majivuno hayafai — Greed is never useful
  • Mkipendana mambo huwa sawa — Everything is all right if you love each other
  • Japo sipati tamaa sikati — Even though I have nothing, I have not given up my desire to get what I want
  • Wazazi ni dhahabu kuwatunza ni thawabu — Parents are gold; to take care of them is a blessing
  • Sisi sote abiria dereva ni Mungu — We are all passengers, God is the driver
  • Fimbo La Mnyonge Halina Nguvu — Might is right
  • Mwanamke mazingira tuanataka, usawa, amani, maendelo — We (women) want equality, peace, and progress
  • Naogopa simba na meno yake siogopi mtu kwa maneno yake — I’m afraid of a lion with its strong teeth but not a man with his words

         A COLOURFUL KANGA SCARF

Apart from its protective and decorative role, kanga is all about sending the message. It is the equivalent of the get well, greetings, or congratulations cards in the western culture but in this case the message goes a little bit beyond the normal meaning. For example, a fruit, a flower, a boat, or a bird could mean good upbringing or just the appreciation of beauty. On the other hand, a lion, a shark, or any such kind of dangerous animals could signal the sense of danger or a clear warning.

This special piece of apparel can also be referred to as the talking clothes.


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